26/05/2014

Ensaladilla Rusa


The Ensaladilla Rusa started life in the 1860's in  the Hermitage restaurant in Moscow; it has very little in common with the modern version. M. Lucién Olivier's version included seafood and cold meats.                                                   During Franco's dictatorship (1936-1976) the Ensaladilla Rusa was renamed Ensaladilla Nacional
Nowadays when you order an ensaladilla rusa in a bar it is made with frozen diced veg and a generic mayonnaise. This is my attempt to elevate this humble dish.

serves 15 (tapa) 
for the veg. 
3 carrots
2 parsnips
1 swede
2 large white-fleshed potatoes
1 beetroot
100g freshly shelled green peas
100g green string beans

3 fresh free-range eggs
3X  100g tinned tuna


for the mayonnaise x2
3 egg yolks 
2 tsp Colman's ready-made English mustard
1 tbsp vinegar from a pickled veg jar 
520ml vegetable oil (low acidity)
50ml virgin olive oil
1 tsp Worcester Sauce 
Maldon sea salt 
Freshly ground white pepper
for the decoration
anchovy fillets
pitted olives
salmon eggs
radishes

for the veg.
1. Dice all the vegetables (not the peas!) to 7-10mm.
2. In pan Nº1 place the diced carrot, parsnip, swede and potato with enough salted water to cover, on to boil. Once it reaches boiling point it will need 17 minutes. Drain and refresh in cold water.
3. In pan Nº2 place the diced beetroot ... so the rest of the vegetables don't end up pink! Again start with cold water, and boil for 17 minutes; then refresh with cold water.
4. In pan Nº3, put salted water on to boil. Once boiling, add the peas and beans and boil for 5 minutes. Then refresh in cold water.
5. Boil the eggs for 10 minutes, drain and cool quickly in cold water to prevent the outside of the yolk turning green.
6. Drain all the veg and transfer to separate bowls; cover with film and store in the fridge until you are ready for the mix.

for the mayonnaise
This can be made by hand, with a hand blender or in a food processor - by hand is a good work-out!
1. Put the egg yolks in a large bowl with the mustard and the vinegar. Whisk to combine.
2. Mix the 2 oils together. Add a small drizzle of oil to the yolk mixture and whisk in. Continue to add small quantities whilst whisking.
n.b. What you are doing is creating an emulsion; dispersing and suspending minute droplets of oil in the egg yolks and the lecithin in the yolks act as an emulsifier.
3. After a while the mixture will begin to thicken and lighten in colour (due to the air being whisked in); now you can be a bit bolder with the oil. Continue to add the oil until you have used up the oil.
4. You should now have a thick and creamy mayonnaise. Season with the Worcester Sauce, salt and white pepper to taste. I also like to add an extra teaspoon or 2 of vinegar.

The mix
1. Mix the vegetables together with the chopped egg and drained tuna and then add the mayonnaise.
2. Correct the seasoning if necessary.
3. Plate up and shape using spatulas, palette knifes...
4. Decorate at will!
5. Serve with breadsticks






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