εύγευστος Greek salad with watermelon

Greece is great: from the evzones, and their particular form of marching, to culinary geniuses like this salad. And, as with all dishes, if made with love, it is transformed ... 
serves 2

½ red onion; finely sliced 
5 tbsp olive oil
2 tbsp red mine vinegar
3 ripe tomatoes; roughly chopped
A good pinch of Maldon sea salt
A pinch of caster sugar
1 chilled, Spanish cucumber (prickly -200g); peeled and roughly chopped
1 tbsp capers; drained
20-30 black olives
1 tsp dried oregano
100g Queso fresco / feta
450g chilled watermelon


1. Use a mandolin to slice the onion finely. Whisk the vinegar with 3 tablespoons of the oil and pour over the onions and set aside for ~20 minutes.
2. In a separate bowl; add the tomatoes and sprinkle over the sugar and salt: put to one side.

~20 minutes later...

3. Gently squeeze the tomatoes and remove them to the onion bowl; retaining all the lovely tomato juices. This will for the dressing.
4. Add the remainder of the ingredients.
5. Whisk the last 2 tablespoons of olive oil into the tomato juices and pour over the salad.
6. Gently toss before serving.
7. εύγευστος!

caponata

This great Sicilian stew shares its name with Big Bird in Spain.

A great stand alone antipasto or maybe served as a bruschetta with mozzarella for lunch or supper.

La Gallina Caponata

serves 5

3 tbsp olive oil

2 aubergines; cut into large chunks: ~5cm

2 tsp dried oregano

1 red onion; finely chopped

2 cloves of garlic; finely sliced

1 tbsp chopped fresh parsley; stalks and all

2 tbsp capers

A good handful of green olives: about 75g

2 tbsp good vinegar; I used a rosemary infused red wine vinegar.

5 ripe tomatoes; roughly chopped

Maldon sea salt

 Freshly ground black pepper

1. Heat the oil in a heavy bottomed pan. Add the aubergine chunks; season and sprinkle over the oregano. Cook on a moderate heat for 5 minutes; or until the pieces are browned on all sides.

N.B. Don't crowd the pan: do them in batches if necessary.

2. Add the onion, garlic and parsley: continue to cook for a couple of minutes more: adding a little more oil if needed.

3. Toss in the olives and capers before drizzling in the vinegar.

4. Tip in the tomato pieces; cover, and simmer for 15 minutes.

5. Check the seasoning and finish with a little chopped parsley leaves.

'WHO'S THE DADDY'

I love brown sauce with a bacon sarnie; who doesn't?

make ~1 litre

50ml olive oil

500g onion; diced

130g celery sticks; diced

½ tsp ground cinnamon

½ tsp ground cloves

½ ground cayenne pepper
1 tsp coriander seeds
130g Medjool dates; stones removed, chopped
1 x 400g tin tomatoes (I used triturado)
60g fructose
2 bay leaves
2 tbsp tamarind concentrate
120ml Sarson's malt vinegar
2 tbsp light vegetable oil
Maldon sea salt 
Freshly ground black pepper

1. Heat the oil in a medium sized saucepan; add the onion and celery and cook over a moderate heat for 20 minutes.
2. Combine the spices and cook for a further 5 minutes.
3. Add the tomatoes, dates, bay leaves, fructose, tamarind concentrate and the vinegar. Stir in 200ml of water and bring to a simmer.
4. Leave it to bubble away for 30 minutes. Season to taste.
5. Remove from the heat a blend to a smooth purée; adding the light vegetable oil at the end.
N.B. If you prefer you sauce a little runnier, then add a little more water.
6. Sterilise suitable jars or bottles by immersing them in boiling water; drain and fill with your sauce.
N.B. once opened they should be stored in the fridge.

Courgette, Red Onion & Tarragon Quiche

makes 23cm quiche

for the pastry

100g plain flour

100g wholemeal flour

88g cold butter; cut into cubes

1/2 tsp pimento de la vera

1 tbsp poppy seeds

1 tsp Maldon sea salt

25-30ml chilled water

for the filling

2 small courgettes; thinly sliced

1 medium red onion; halved and finely sliced

a knob of butter

1 tbsp olive oil

2 free-range eggs

240ml milk

2 tbsp créme fraîche

175g mild Cheddar; grated

a small handful of tarragon leaves

Maldon sea salt

Freshly ground black pepper

1. Sift the flours into a large bowl. Add the salt, pimenton, poppy seeds and butter cubes.

2. Using your fingertips: rub the butter into the flour mixture until it resembles breadcrumbs.

3. Add enough water to bring the dough together; knead for a few seconds, wrap in film and rest in the fridge for 30 minutes.

meanwhile...

4. In a heavy-bottomed skillet: heat the butter and oil; add the courgette and onion and cook over a low heat for 5 minutes until softened. Season well. Transfer to a colander to drain over a large bowl.

back to the pastry...

5. Preheat the oven to 200°C

6. Remove from the fridge and roll out onto a floured surface to a thickness of 5mm.

7. Gently lower into the quiche tin: pushing down into the corner. Line with a larger circular piece of baking parchment; tip in dried beans and blind bake for 15 minutes.

8. Lift out the parchment and beans; return to the oven for a further 5 minutes.

9. Remove the pastry case from the oven and reduce the oven temperature to 180°C.  Cover the bottom of the pastry case with the cheese; retaining a little to sprinkle on the top.

N.B. The cheese will act as a barrier and stop the quiche getting a soggy bottom.

10. Add the courgette and onion.

11. In a large jug, whisk together the milk, eggs and créme fraîche: season. Pour over the courgette and onion.

12. Sprinkle over the remaining cheese and the tarragon leaves. Bake in oven for 40-45 minutes until set and lightly browned on top. Remove from the oven a leave to rest for 5 minutes before turning out and serving.

Ratatouille / Pisto

serves 2

2 tbsp olive oil

1 small aubergine; 2cm diced

1 large onion; roughly chopped

1 small courgette; halved lengthways and sliced, 1cm

3 ripe plum tomatoes; cut in wedges x6

1 medium red pepper; 3cm pieces

2 good pinches of Maldon sea salt

5 twists of freshly ground black pepper

2 cloves of garlic; finely chopped

2 bay leaves

2 springs of thyme

1 tsp dried Provençal herbs

a few fresh basil leaves

1. Heat the oil in a large, wide bottomed saucepan (that has lid).

2. Add all the ingredients (except the basil) and cook over a low heat for 30 minutes with the lid on.

3. Stir the ratatouille and continue to cook for a further 20 minutes or until all the veg is tender.

4. Tear the leaves and stir them in to the ratatouille.

5. Plate up and drizzle with a little more olive oil.

Succotash

So, suffering succotash!...

Succotash is a dish; a great dish, whether it be a side to meats or fish or a stand alone meal. The name comes from the Narragansett people who used to live on Rhode Island. Their word sohquttahhash means broken corn kernels.

Coconut oil was a revelation to me: it lends the dish a rich silkiness. If you can't get hold of it, use a good olive oil.

serves 2

1½ tbsp coconut oil

100g fresh habas (lima beans)

1 shallot; finely diced

1 medium cebolla tierna / spring onion; diced

1 small courgette

5 cherry tomatoes; halved

1 corn on the cob

1 tsp chopped fresh chives

2 tsp chopped basil leaves

1 tsp lemon juice

1. Bring a saucepan of lightly salted water to the boil and add the habas for 2 minutes. Drain, refresh in cold water and set aside.

2. Heat 1 tablespoon of the coconut oil in a large heavy-bottomed skillet. dd the shallot and cebolla; and gently cook for 5 minutes until they soften and take on a little colour.

N.B. Coconut oil has a lower smoke point than other vegetable oils.

3. Add the courgette and continue to cook on a low heat; for another 5 minutes until the courgette is soft.

4. To remove the kernels from the cob: stand the cob upright, cut side down, on a chopping board. Push down on the top with one hand; while you run a knife down with the other hand. Keep as close to the core of the cob as possible... collect the kernels.

5. Stir in the beans, corn kernels and tomato halves. Cock for a further 5 minutes, warm everything through and release some of the juices from the tomatoes.

6. Remove from the heat; stir in the other half a tablespoon of coconut oil along with the herbs and lemon juice

7. Serve.

Revuelto de Ajos Tiernos / Scrambled Eggs with Spring Garlic

serves 2

4 free-range eggs

Bunch of ajos tiernos

~35g butter

Maldon sea salt

2 tsp Créme Fraîche

1. Skin and chop the tender part of the ajos tiernos.

2. Heat the butter in a thick-bottomed pan and add the ajos tiernos.

N.B. Be careful not to burn the butter... if you like you can add a little oil, which will stop it from burning.

3. Cook until they start to soften up. Turn down the heat.

4. Add the eggs and stir, with a wooden spoon, to break up the yolks and mix them.

5. Now the trick is not to stir too often; you want soft folds and not purée.

6. When the scramble is almost set, remove from the heat.

7. Stir in the créme fraîche and serve... with toast and a sprinkle of chopped chives.

Fig, Ricotta and Cherry Tomato Salad / Ensalada de Higos, Ricotta y Tomates Cherry

serves 2

I have a fig tree on the balcony...

4 fresh figs

5 Cherry tomatoes; cut in half, length ways

150g Ricotta or Requeson

~75g mixed young salad leaves

good olive oil

fresh lemon juice

Maldon sea salt

Freshly ground pepper

1. Rinse the figs and tomatoes; cross cut the figs and gently press down to open them up a bit.

2. Make a bed of the leaves lay the tomatoes and figs on top.

3. Use a spoon to make loose quinelles: lay them in-between the figs.

4. Season before dressing with the olive oil and lemon juice.

Onion Bhaji with Raita & Quick Tomato Chutney

serves 4

180g gram flour

2 tbsp ghee / clarified butter

2 tbsp lemon juice

1 tsp turmeric

2 tsp cumin seeds

½ tsp fennel seeds

1-2 green chilli/es; finely chopped 

2 tsp fresh ginger; grated

4 cloves of garlic; crushed

small bunch of fresh coriander: finely chopped

3 onions 

Maldon sea salt

vegetable oil

for the raita

125g natural yoghurt (1 normal tub)

few fresh mint leaves, torn

¼ cucumber, chopped

green chilli, to taste, thinly sliced

Maldon sea salt

for the tomato chutney

2 tbsp oil

1 shallot, finely chopped

4-5 ripe tomatoes; chopped

2 cloves of garlic, crushed

2 tsp brown sugar

2 tbsp Balsamic vinegar

for the tomato chutney

1. Heat the oil in a small saucepan; add the shallot, tomatoes and garlic. Cook for 7 minutes.

2. Add the sugar and Balsamic vinegar and cook for a further 3 minutes or, until the mix has started to caramelise a little. Transfer to a small pot or bowl: ready to serve.

then...

for the raita

3. n a small bowl,Combine all the ingredients and salt to taste. Chill in the fridge until ready to serve.

now...

4. In a large bowl, combine the flour with the ghee and lemon juice.

5. Add enough chilled water to bring the mix to the consistency of double cream.

6. Roughly chop the cumin seeds and add them; along with the other aromatics and herbs, to the mix.

7. Peel the onions, cut them in half and remove the core. Finely slice the coreless halves-

8. Stir the onion into the creamy mix until well coated.

9. Put the oven on a low heat; and put an easily accessible oven tray (paper towel-lined)on the top shelf.

9. Heat the vegetable oil to 180ºC: or until a drop of the batter mix sizzles, then floats.

10. Wet your hands and take about a tablespoon of the mix, and form it into a ball: Gently and carefully drop the ball in to the hot oil. Do not crowd the pan.

11. Carefully stir to prevent them from sticking to each other; and, cook for about 4 minutes or until crisp and golden.

12. Transfer to the lined oven tray to keep warm, while you next batch.

Cauliflower and Potato Curry / Curry de Coliflor y Patata

serves 2

2 tbsp of ghee or oil

1 tsp cumin seeds

1 tbsp finely grated fresh ginger

1-2 hot green chillies

1 small cauliflower, small florets.

3 medium potatoes, peeled and diced.

2 ripe tomatoes

2 tsp ground coriander seeds

½  tsp turmeric powder

½  Garam Masala

1 tsp brown sugar

2 tsp Maldon sea salt

to finish

few fresh coriander leaves

1 tbsp fresh lemon juice

1. In a thick-bottomed pan; heat the ghee and cook the cumin seeds until they start to brown.

2. Add the ginger and finely chopped chilli. Stir and cook for a couple of minutes.

3. Combine the potatoes and the cauliflower and cook for 5 minutes; stirring occasionally. The potatoes should start to stick to the base.

4. Cut the tomatoes in half and then grate them in to a bowl. Discard the skins.

N.B. This is much quicker  method of removing the skins: no blanching followed by iced water!

5. Pour in the tomatoes and remaining ingredients and cook over a low heat for 15 minutes: adding more water if necessary ( not too much - the dish should end up with a thick sticky sauce).

6. Plate up and finish with the lemon juice and coriander leaves.

Requeson, Spinach and Pine Nut Ravioli with Sage Butter / Ravioli de Requesón, Espinacas y Piñones con Mantequilla de Salvia

serves 2

for the pasta

160g 00 flour

160g Semolina flour

2 free-range eggs M

5 free-range egg yolks M

for the filling

300g fresh spinach

20 pine nuts

200g Requesón

few grates of nutmeg

Maldon sea salt

Freshly ground black pepper

for the sage butter
50g butter
2 tsp lemon juice
a few fresh sage leaves

Maldon sea salt

Freshly ground black pepper

1. In a large bowl mix the 2 flours together; and with a fork, combine the egg and yolks.

2. Bring the dough together with your hand and knead for about 5 minutes until it is glossy and elastic.

3. Wrap in cling film and leave to rest in the fridge for an hour.

meanwhile...

4. Wilt the spinach in a large saucepan with a little water for 2-3 minutes.

5. Drain the spinach in a colander and press to remove the excess water.

6. Leave to cool.

7. Toast the pine nuts in a dry pan until golden brown. Set aside to cool.

8. Chop the spinach and combine with the requesón and pine nuts in a bowl.

9. Add the nutmeg and season to taste.

then...

10. Remove the dough from the fridge and set up your pasta machine.

11. Run the dough through a pasta machine on the widest setting; and after each run-through fold both ends into the centre; and press down. Repeat this 5 times.

12. The sheet should now be silky smooth; reduce the gap between the rollers to number 3 and run the sheet through. Lightly dust with semolina flour.

N.B. If the sheet is getting too wide you can fold the sheet in half lengthwise before running it through again.

13. Lightly dust your work surface. You are going to need enough space to lay out 2 or 4 sheets (top/s and bottom/s).

14. Now take the roller gap down to 1mm and run the sheet through for the final time.

15. Separate the sheet into 2 or 4 lengths (depending on your available work surface), and lay them out.

16. Take a teaspoon of the filling and place it in the centre of the 'bottom' sheet 4cm in from start of the sheet. Place repeated teaspoonfuls at 8cm intervals until you reach the end. With a soft pastry brush; brush water around each little mountain of filling.

17. Take the 'top' sheet and flip it over before placing it on top of the 'bottom' sheet. Using your fingers to expel any air: press down firmly around the filling before cutting out the ravioli.

N.B. Sprinkle with semolina flour to stop the ravioli sticking together.

18. Bring a large saucepan of heavily salted water to the boil. Lid on.

19. In a heavy-bottomed pan; melt the butter before adding the lemon juice and sage leaves; season to taste.

20. Cook the ravioli for 2 minutes. Lid off.

21. Add the ravioli to the butter and stir to coat.. Serve and sprinkle over a little Parmesan.

Mmmmm...

Ful (Medames)

I spent some time living in Cairo and I have fond memories of the ful vendors on the street. It still seems excessive as a breakfast; so this time I made it for lunch.

serves 2+

for the ful

400g Fava beans (or pinta)

juice of 1 lemon

2 tbsp olive oil

1 tbsp white wine vinager

1/4 tsp chilli flakes

1 tsp cumin

3 garlic cloves; crushed

1/2 Maldon sea salt

1/4 tsp freshly ground black pepper

water

to serve

3 pitta breads

1 cucumber

1 red onion

3 tomatoes

olive oil

lemon juice

Maldon sea salt

Flat leaf parsley

1. Put all the ingredients for the ful in a saucepan and add enough water to just cover the beans.

2. bring to the boil, reduce the heat and simmer for 10 minutes.

3. Mash and stir the beans until you have a rough puree.

4. Set aside to cool a little while you prepare the salad and heat the pittas.

5. Dress the salad with a little squeeze of lemon juice, a drizzle of olive oil, a sprinkle of Maldon sea salt and a few parsley leaves.

Helado de Albaricoques / Apricot Ice Cream

serves 6-8

570ml whipping cream 35.1%

1 vanilla pod

150g caster sugar

6 free-range egg yolks

300g puréed apricot

1. Split the vanilla pod and remove the seeds. 

2. Pour the cream into a saucepan and add the vanilla seeds and pod. Over a medium heat, bring the cream to a simmer and immediately remove from the heat; and leave to infuse for 10 minutes.

3. Meanwhile, in a large bowl, cream the egg yolks and sugar till pale and thick.

4. Remove the vanilla pod and whisk the cream into the egg yolk mixture. 

5. Return to the saucepan and, over a medium heat, stir continuously and cook until the custard thickens: coating the back of a spoon.

6. Pour back into the bowl add the puréed fruit and leave to cool. Then cool further in the fridge.

7. After about an hour transfer the mixture to a deep, metal oven dish and transfer to the freezer.

8. After 45 minutes, remove the mixture and stir vigorously. The important thing is to break up the forming ice crystal into smaller pieces: the smaller, the better.

9. Return to the freezer for a further 30 minutes. Remove, stir vigorously and return to the freezer.

10. Repeat step 9 for 2-3 hours.

N.B. You can use a hand whisk or hand blender, if you like. 

Gazpacho andaluz / Andalusian Gazpacho

serves 2

500g ripe tomatoes: plum tomatoes make a redder gazpacho

1/2 cucumber

1/2 red pepper

1/2 green pepper

50g white bread
1 garlic clove

75ml olive oil

20ml Jerez sherry vinegar

Maldon sea salt

Freshly ground black pepper

1. Break the bread into small pieces and place in a bowl covered with cold water. Leave to soak in the fridge for 30 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, chop the tomatoes, peppers and cucumber and add them to your blender or food processor. Squeeze out the water from the bread and add that along with the oil and the crushed garlic. Blend until smooth.

3. Pass the mixture through a fine sieve: which will remove the seeds and skin.

4. Add the vinegar and season to taste.

5. Chill in the fridge for at least an hour.

6. Gazpacho can be served with finely chopped peppers,cucumber and onion* and mint leaves or with croutons: gently fry a bruised clove of garlic in a couple of tablespoons of olive oil and then fry the bread. For Parmesan croutons simply press the bread into Parmesan before frying.

onion* if the onion is too strong for you, you can make it milder by soaking the chopped onion in salty water for 10 minutes. Drain and serve. 

Or, put the chopped onion in a heatproof bowl and sprinkle over salt before covering with boiling water: leave to cool. The onion will be much milder.

Tortilla de Coliflor / Cauliflower Tortilla

serves 4

~200g small cauliflower florets

2 tbsp lemon juice

a knob of butter ~15g

2 tbsp olive oil

5 free-range eggs

Maldon sea salt
Freshly ground black pepper

1. Soak the cauliflower florets in a bowl with water and the lemon juice for about 20 minutes; this will thoroughly clean the cauliflower. 

2. Drain, and add the florets to boiling water: return to the boil and continue for 3-4 minutes until tender. Drain.

3. In an 18cm non-stick tortilla pan; melt the butter with the oil. Add the florets and sauté until lightly browned.

4. Season the florets. 

5. Whisk the eggs and season; pour into florets and stir on a medium heat for 30 seconds. Then using a silicon spatula; separate the setting mixture from the pan. Shake the pan from time to time. Continue to cook until the underside starts to colour.

6. Place a plate over the pan; flip it over and slide the tortilla back into the pan (uncooked-side down).

7. Return to the heat and cook until the underside is lightly browned and the tortilla is set.

Mama Dallou’ah

makes ~500g

Mama is Mum and dallou’ah means flirtatious, coquettish, and an endearing young woman.

2 medium beetroots ~450g

2 tbsp tahini

1 garlic clove, finely chopped.

4 tbsp of lemon juice

½ pomegranate

1. Wrap the beetroots in foil with a splash of white wine and roast for about 40-60 minutes at 220ºC.

2. Put to one side and leave to cool.

3. Remove from the foil and (using disposable gloves if you don't want red hands) peel by rubbing them.

4. Cut the beetroots into small pieces and place in a food processor along with the garlic, lemon and tahini. Blend to a course paste.

5. Transfer to a serving dish and create a moat using a teaspoon. Fill the moat with the pomegranate seeds.

Roasted Onion Salad with Pomegranate Dressing / Ensalada de Cebollas a la Parrilla con aliño de Granada

Roasted Onion Salad with Pomegranate Dressing

serves 4

7 onions: new season / red / spring
½ pomegranate
a few fresh peppermint leaves

for the dressing
½ pomegranate
1 garlic clove
5 tbsp olive oil
Maldon sea salt 
Freshly ground black pepper

1. Place the onions on the BBQ until they are blackened and soft.
2. Remove from the BBQ a set aside to cool a little.
3. Using a fine sieve; squeeze the pomegranate seeds over a bowl. Mix the juice with the oil and season to taste.
4. Remove the soft onions from their blackened shells. Halve or quarter as necessary.
5. Scatter over the remaining seeds and torn peppermint leaves.
6. Transfer the dressing to clean jar, tighten the lid and shake before dressing your salad.

Aji Columbiano / Columbian Aji Sauce

Aji is made throughout South America and recipes vary dramatically from table to table. The name refers to the chili pepper it normally contains; although this version is based on my Colombian friend, Phonor's recipe, which contains no aji pepper. So, to spice it up you should add finely sliced chillies or Tabasco.

Aji is normally served along with sancocho and arepas.

makes ~1l

2 ripe avocados

1 large onion

2 large ripe tomatoes

3 tbsp lemon juice / 1 large lemon

A large bunch of Coriander

Maldon sea salt

1. Finely chop the onion and tomatoes and place in a large bowl.

2. Add the juice of 1 lemon: this will stop the avocado from oxidising when you add it into the mix.

3. Halve the avocado and lightly chop into the stone, twist and remove. Squeeze a little lemon juice onto the avocado halves. Using a tablespoon: remove the flesh from the skin. Finely chop and add to the mixture.

4. Season to taste before adding the finely chopped coriander.

5. Leave the mixture at room temperature for 15 minutes to allow the flavours to develop. 

6. Chill until needed.

Phonor's aji

Phonor

Beetroot Salad with Pistachio Sauce

Beetroot Salad with Pistachio Sauce

serves 2

1 raw beetroot

1 tbsp lemon juice

olive oil

1 tbsp of chopped flat leaf parsley

for the pistachio sauce

50g shelled pistachio

1/2 tbsp finely chopped peppermint

1 tbsp finely chopped flat leaf parsley

2 tbsp lemon juice

1 tsp finely grated lemon zest

4 tbsp olive oil

4 tbsp water

Malden sea salt

Freshly ground black pepper

1. Peel the beetroot and finely slice it using a mandolin.

2. Dress with the olive oil and lemon juice; and season.

3. Put all the ingredients for the sauce into a food processor and blend to a rough paste.

4. Season to taste.

5. Plate the beetroot and spoon over the sauce; finish with the chopped parsley.

Pickled Vegetables / Verduras en Vinagre

Fills 4 medium jars

for the pickling liquid

1l white wine vinegar

250ml water

5 star anise

2 tbsp white peppercorns

1 tbsp fennel seeds

1 tbsp coriander seeds

500g caster sugar

for the vegetables

1 cauliflower, cut into small florets

5 baby carrots, diagonally sliced

5 shallots, quartered and halved

10 radishes, quartered

5 small celery sticks, diagonally sliced

2 small cucumbers, quartered and diagonally sliced

2 small courgettes, quartered and diagonally sliced

1. Put all the ingredients for the pickling liquid into a saucepan; and whilst stirring, bring to the boil.

2. Reduce to a simmer and leave uncovered for 15 minutes; to help the spices to infuse.

3. Remove from the heat, cover and leave to cool.

4. Add all the vegetables to a large bowl and pour over the pickling liquid through a sieve.

5. Mix and transfer to jars. Leave for 2 hours before serving.

N.B. If you want to spice this up: add a few slices of chilli to the jar.